No beaches or booze: what South Africa’s main tourist attraction looks like during Covid

(CNN) – With its sprawling mountain ranges, sandy beaches and towering forests, Cape Town is a place where nature dominates and begs visitors to stop and take it all in.

The southernmost city in Africa has an unofficial motto: “Slow down, it’s Cape Town.” But these words took on new meaning during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Reclaiming the city

Instead of the usual crowd of foreigners in khaki shorts and sensible sandals flocking to Camps Bay and Table Mountain, the only tourists living abroad are South Africans who have risked returning home.

I was one of those homesick Capetonians who rediscovered my city during the holidays.

On an overnight flight from Paris in December, I had a row of seats to myself and two masks securely fastened. Upon arrival, the staff checked my temperature and my real entry ticket to the land – a negative PCR test.

Traveling from Europe to South Africa for a second dose of sunshine at the end of the year has always been a treat.

The holidays fall during the height of summer in South Africa, and the city is filled with light and laughter.

Schools are out for the holidays, families gather for braais – South African for grilling – in backyards and everyone is starting to relax and pick up the year.

Everything is alive and thriving, the only memories of the pandemic are masked citizens, endless squirts of sanitizer and temperature controls, and a 9pm curfew.

Ahead of the New Year celebrations, South African President Cyril Ramaphosa held what he likes to call a “ family gathering, ” announcing the closure of many of the country’s beaches and a ban on the sale and consumption of alcohol.

Bars and restaurants quickly adapted, offering non-alcoholic beers and mocktails, and a prohibition-type black market emerged as locals began selling their drinks to the highest bidders.

Understated atmosphere

But the new restrictions have not dampened the spirits in the city. Residents have easily adapted, with many choosing to spend more time outside exploring the mountains playground on the doorstep.

South African Lara Kerswill, who returned home from London during the holidays, says she found the atmosphere somewhat subdued.

“December usually has such good energy – everyone made it through the year and want to have fun,” she tells CNN.

‘The sun is shining, you go from one plan to another, catch up with friends you haven’t seen in a while, meet new people.

“This year feels very muted. Things need to be arranged and monitored ahead of time to make sure everyone is healthy and comfortable. And even then, plans will change at the last minute due to someone’s insulation requirements or new guidelines.”

This time, Kerswill has swapped parties, festivals and busy restaurants for walks, hikes and swimming.

But the reality of life during the pandemic is hard to ignore, even during a seemingly simple activity like a visit to the popular tide pool on the shore of False Bay.

“We were getting ready to slip into … shoes, shorts,” says Kerswill. “Then we got up in swimwear with our masks on, not sure when is the most appropriate time to take them off.”

‘Everyone feels safer outside’

For Joi Benjamin, a South African currently living in Paris, returning home was also an opportunity to finally spend time outside.

“Coming from a winter, closed-off Paris, I appreciate the sea air, the parks and the mountains so close,” says Benjamin.

“The pandemic makes me appreciate this so much more than ever.”

Sarah Carden, another South African returning home from the UK, was lucky enough to still be able to do all the things she likes while visiting the city.

“I love to ride a bike, so I’ve been on my bike a few times along the coast and the roads are full of cyclists and walkers,” she tells CNN. “I think everyone feels safer outside.”

Although the locals claimed their city during this uncertain period, there are constant reminders of those who hit the pandemic much harder – the homeless people of Cape Town.

While I was concerned that my flight back to France would be canceled, thousands are worried about having a makeshift roof over their heads.

As with any trip to Cape Town, it’s clear that the magic of the city is and always will be reserved for the wealthy as you venture beyond the bars, wineries and waterfront glamor.

And as the virus spreads, the gap between those who want nothing and those who have nothing seems to be widening.