Best Islands in the Philippines? What to see and do in Batanes

A cluster of islands in the northernmost region of the Philippines are so remote that they are actually closer to Taiwan than most parts of the Philippines.

The islands are located 160 kilometers north of Luzon, the largest and most populous island in the country and home to the capital Manila. Still, they couldn’t be further from the stereotypical tropical scene of swaying palms and white sand beaches that belong to the Philippine archipelago.

Picture windy emerald hills dotted with cattle, quaint stone towns with flower-lined paths, sheer cliffs plunging into a deep sea of ​​pounding, white-tipped waves, and lighthouses standing steadfast and strong, just like the locals themselves.

This is Batanes – a captivating and magical place that feels more like the set of the historical drama “Outlander” than “The Beach”.

Made up of three main islands – Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat – that lie between the North Pacific and South China Sea, Batanes is often ravaged by relentless typhoons that form on both waters.

It also lies on the Circum-Pacific Belt, known as the Ring of Fire, and is prone to frequent earthquakes, one that damaged Itbayat Island in July 2019.

Here the land is forged by the elements and in many ways the people too.

There is an air of mystery that envelops Batanes’s indigenous people, the Ivatans. Because of the isolation, challenging climate and difficult landscape, the locals have built a society that values ​​trust and real connection.

Unlike the noisy and charmingly chaotic country sides of the Philippines, which can feel more of a karaoke pub than an idyllic paradise, Batanes and its people are quiet, thoughtful, orderly and peaceful. Warm and genuine, the Ivatans seek honest interaction with visitors who want to learn more about their culture.

The Ivatans live in symbiosis with nature and care for their natural heritage with an almost spiritual zeal. They recognize the land as the source of their well-being and well-being and are adamant about sustainability.

The best example is the lack of markets in the province; agricultural practices are designed to produce just enough food for the population, with very little surplus.

Here Christian faith and spirituality permeate everyday life. The word “Dius” or God is used in many expressions: “Dius mamajes!” – or God will pay you back is their way of thanking you; “Dius machivan!” may God go with you is their farewell; or just “Dius?” to ask if anyone is home. Once there, visitors will usually say “Dius mavidin!” or may God be with you, and that’s how they welcome guests.

Unlike most parts of the Philippines, Batanes is sparsely populated.

The 2015 census counted just 17,246 people, which equates to about 205 people per square mile.

There are strict measures to prevent overtourism, such as limiting the number of flights to the islands. The area is also covered by the Batanes Responsible Tourism Act, by which the Philippine government declared the province a “responsible community-based cultural heritage and ecotourism zone” in 2016.

As a result, travelers can expect to find homestays and small inns rather than brand hotels.

One establishment really stands out.

The former residence of the late artist Pacita Abad, Fundacion Pacita is a charming bed and breakfast set on a lush, grassy slope overlooking the sea.

Built in the traditional stone style, combined with whitewashed adobe walls, it is quirky decorated with colorful tiles, repurposed furniture and Abad’s vibrant artwork.

Her niece, Patsy, who often walks around the property with a cheerful smile and a glass of wine, now runs the inn. She recently opened the fabulous Café du Tukon, which serves delicious contemporary interpretations of local delicacies such as a carbonara paste topped with salted dolphin fish called arayu. instead of bacon or guanciale.

Batan is the main island of Batanes. Due to choppy waters and unpredictable weather, it can be difficult to cross the islands of Batanes. Fortunately, Batan has a lot to offer and is easily accessible via commercial flights.

It is imperative to partner with an accredited travel agency, such as IBS Tours and Travels, before organizing a trip. The agency can coordinate a car and guide to navigate the breathtaking coastal road that wraps around the island.

Agencies can also arrange stops in notable locations such as the iconic Basco Lighthouse and Tayid Lighthouse, the rolling hills of Rakuh a Payaman, and the colorful waters of Homoron Blue Lagoon.

It’s also worth stopping at small, peaceful towns like Mahatao and Ivana, known for their churches and Spanish bridges, as well as Diura, home to the Mataw caste of mystical fishermen.

Weather permitting, Sabtang Island can be reached by ferry in 40 minutes. The breathtaking view from the cliffs of Chamantad Tiñan is worthwhile, as is the stone village of Chavayan where they vacul, traditional headdresses made from stripped palm leaves that protect female farm workers from the elements.

The only real way to get there is to fly. Flights can range from 80 to 100 minutes and can be booked with Skyjet, Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines in advance of the pandemic.

A trip to Batanes must be planned and booked in advance through accredited tour operators. The local government is very focused on sustainable tourism and the preservation of the natural and cultural heritage of the province. There are a number of rules and guidelines – such as the lack of bikinis on the beach – that tourists must understand and adhere to while traveling.

While the Philippines is currently closed to international tourism, officials last month showed interest in setting up “international travel bells,” or travel corridors with strict health protocols, with neighboring countries.

Batanes, which registered its third Covid-19 case in December 2020, is currently closed even to domestic tourists. Local authorities are investigating ways to reopen safely with 14-day quarantines and are imposing other health requirements.

The “good season” of Batanes runs from November to May. June to October is typhoon season and should be avoided. Travelers are advised to bring a lightweight rain jacket for spontaneous downpours and a light sweater for cool nights that can be found atop the chilly mountain peaks.